The Astonishing Craftsmanship of the Temples of Bhaktapur, Nepal

Many claim there are more gods than people in the Kathmandu Valley. It feels that way. Spiritually pungent, deliciously rich in culture and tradition. Flower petals, vermilion powder and rice are offered on brass trays daily at these sacred spots.

The contrast with frenetic India is dramatic. Chill, more peaceful. An absence of car horns.

The Himalayas loom, menacing with tectonic threat but grand and gorgeous.

Nepal is the country of Mount Everest, the highest mountain peak in the world, and the birthplace of Gautama Buddha.

Nepal exists outside of normal time. Time as we Americans measure the hours, days, centuries.

Nepal Standard Time (NPT) is the time zone for Nepal. With a time offset from Coordinated Universal Time (UTC) of UTC+05:45 all over Nepal, it is one of only three time zones with a 45-minute offset from UTC. Which means it differs from all other zones by 15 minutes.

Nepali Calendar is also known the Bikram Sambat Nepali calendar. The current Nepali Year is 2080 Bikram Sambat, approximately 56 years and 8 and months ahead of our calendar.

In Nepal the new year starts from the middle of April and, adding to the confusion, the days of the months change yearly.

So many gods mean equivalent places of worship. A favorite was the former capital of the Valley, Bhaktapur, the best preserved medieval town in Nepal, packed with temples and stunning traditional architecture. Impossible to appreciate the intricate detail of such workmanship, especially in the context of the time and tools available.

Although chronicles like the Gopal Raj Vamshavali put the foundation of Bhaktapur in the 12th century, it has been the site of numerous settlements since at least the Licchavi dynasty. Bhaktapur served as the capital of Nepal during the first half of Malla dynasty from the 12th century to 1482 when Nepal split into three independent kingdoms.

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The Newars, the oldest inhabitants of the Kathmandu Valley, distinguished the tiered pagoda style temples with their chowks, the rectangular courtyards used as a gathering point for social activities. Living was designed for clusters.

Finely detailed wooden carvings and tiled roofs ooze history and antiquity.

I was fascinated by the Palace of 55 Windows, dating from about 1427 AD with add-ons and reconstruction by King Bhupatindra Malla in the 17th century. Still the original 55 windows, though.

Nepali folklore is often illustrated in dance and music and the people are open to sharing their traditions. Although tourism is steadily increasing, Nepal’s remote location has kept the culture widely unaffected from outside influences.