It’s impossible not to be impressed by (1) the sheer immensity of this walled city and it’s legendary fortress. But an impressive distant past beginning with 7th century onslaughts of Slavs, followed by Saracens, 11th century Venetian rule and, through canny diplomacy, good relations with neighboring countries…even the Ottoman Turks, allowed the city to flourish. Until 1667 when flourishing art and architecture (2) was destroyed by an earthquake, marking the …