Delhi is like no other place on earth. The capital of India and home to 20 million, all of whom crowd the streets, souk-like bazaars, sidewalks and roads day and night. There are no signs, no traffic rules, no order. The chaos is both overwhelming and glorious; a sensual assault. Dive in with a cycle rickshaw ride at noon, the height of the wedding season, just before Diwali (India’s high …