Many claim there are more gods than people in the Kathmandu Valley. It feels that way. Spiritually pungent, deliciously rich in culture and tradition. Flower petals, vermilion powder and rice are offered on brass trays daily at these sacred spots. The contrast with frenetic India is dramatic. Chill, more peaceful. An absence of car horns. The Himalayas loom, menacing with tectonic threat but grand and gorgeous. Nepal is the country of …