Southern Italy’s Treasure: The Best in Farm to Table Dining

It’s called “Agriturismo”. The name gives it away. Translation, a working farm, vineyard (or both!), open to guests offering hospitality in a rural setting. Usually with an emphasis on sustainability and a connection with the land. Perfect for our Italian adventure where gastronomy is the heart and soul of this country. In the Campania and Salerno regions, the farm to table experience is like no other I’ve ever sampled. Highlights …

My Simple, Practical Tips on How Not to Look Like a Tourist Abroad

First, why is this important? As a solo female traveler, especially if you like going “off the grid” to explore on your own, you’re less conspicuous. Pickpockets are a factor in every large city, here and abroad. Also, there are cultural norms which, as a woman traveling in a different country, merit your attention. Here are a few of my personal rules for “blending in.” Fanny packs shout, “I am …

Poland’s Buried Treasure: The Grandeur of the Wieliczka Salt Mines

The Wieliczka Salt Mines. A thousand feet deep, 200 miles of passageways first dug with hand tools by salt miners beginning in the 13th century when salt was precious as silver. Magnificent carvings in grey salt rocks. Chandeliers carved from salt crystals. There are over twenty separate chapels in the mine dating from the 17th century. I expected the salt to be white, but it varies from all shades of …

Walking Among the Ghosts of Auschwitz-Birkenau

This is a difficult post to write. It should be. The inconceivable horrors that took place here, and in over 450 other concentration camps in Poland alone, are memorialized on a scale equal to the evil of their complex, messianic perpetrators. The people of Poland and the Baltic countries do not doubt that this evil still governs. Putin’s armies patrol their borders. NATO membership is cherished. It is estimated that …

The Mysterious and Miraculous Black Madonna of Czestochowa

Easter Sunday just outside of Krakow in Europe’s most Catholic country. This most important holiday is a celebration of food, family and worship. No shops are open and even the picnic tables at the monastery of Jasna Gora have been removed. Bells peal from the towers as we enter the small sanctuary where the Madonna is housed. Mass is being said but we have received permission to pass through to …

The Hill of the Crosses: A Triumph of Relentless Faith

It’s a simple shrine. Just outside of the northern city of Sialuliai, Lithuania on a hilly expanse of cleared land, forested on one side and bordered by streams; a monument like no other I’ve see. It’s origin is a mystery. It is a holy place. Thousands of metal and wooden crosses draped with rosaries, medals and statues of saints, towering images of Jesus Christ, pictures of the VIrgin Mother. Placed …