“A good story cannot be devised, it has to be distilled”
Raymond Chandler
Ireland: Republic of and Northern
Distilled in great photos with brief commentary. Five grand adventures beginning with Dublin and a circumnavigation of the Republic of Ireland, with a pause for positive Covid test adding eleven days to the journey. A chance to visit Northern Ireland.
Dublin’s jewels: Jameson’s, St. Patrick’s ( built 1220) novelist Oscar Wilde, Irish Immigration Museum, the Irish President’s residence, haddock chowder with brown bread, black tea with milk.
A morning walk up 157 steps to the top of Blarney Castle to kiss the stone. Over to Waterford and a singalong with local friends, then dinner and a night at the elegant Granville Hotel.
Benelux: Belgium, The Netherlands and Luxembourg
Called « the dancing houses » due to a pronounced tilt, they face Amsterdam’s semicircle of connected canals, punctuated by houseboats along the banks. Parking is an art form.
Details of spectacular Vermeer, Asselijn and faces from Rembrandt’s “The Night Watch” at the Rijksmuseum. Dutch cheese, clogs, à climb into a 372 year old working windmill that pumps 25,000 gallons of water a minute and dinner in Volendam with eel, herring and cod from its waters. Tomorrow, Keukenhof Tulip Festival.
The Lion’s Mound commemorates the sight of the battle of Waterloo on June 18, 1815. A steep, windswept climb to the top for views of the Belgian countryside. North to Bruges, a deep dive back into Flemish/French/Dutch cultural and linguistic mix. Hotpotch is a appropriately a real menu item but we chose fresh steamed mussels and frites. Bruges is also home to an art-form called the handmade chocolate praline introduced by Jean Neuhaus and revered to this day.
Israel and Jordan
Night to morning: sound and light at the Tower of David Museum. Through Palestinian checkpoint to Bethlehem’s Church of the Nativity built over the actual cave and stable to kneel, touch and pray at the birth place and manger of Jesus. Holiest of the most holy.
Morning began in Jerusalem at the Garden Tomb, New Testament sites of Golgotha, biblical climax of the Crucifixion and the chance to kneel in His empty tomb. I have no words to describe this experience.
Jordan is a sensory feast, a puzzle of history: ancient civilizations with their progression of wars, art, culture and biblical resonance. This morning, Kerak Castle, a large Crusader fortress located in al-Karak, whose construction began in the 1140s. Lunch at a family restaurant in Madaba, center of mosaic masterpieces and brought back to life under the protectorate of Queen Noor in the 1980’s. Tonight we sleep with the Dead Sea on the Jordan side of history.
Sandstorms veil the landscape dimming sunlight. First Bethany and the site on the Jordan River where Jesus was baptized, once disputed archeological findings merited a Papal visit. Mount Nebo where Moses Viewed the Promised Land
Petra, located in the southwestern corner of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan was once a thriving trading center and capital of the Nabataean empire between 400 B.C. and A.D. 106. The city sat empty and in near ruin for centuries. In the 1800s a Swiss traveler disguised himself in Bedouin costume and infiltrated the mysterious locale, later announcing his find to the world. Several scenes from Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade were filmed here. It was amazing/chaotic/confusing/exhausting and worth it. One of the 7 Wonders.
France
16th century Chateau de Chenonceau along the River Cher, the ladies’ palace whose lush, brilliant design was fueled by jealousy, intrigue and spurned lover’s revenge: designer Katherine Briconnet, then Henri II’s widow, Catherine de Medici vs. mistress Diane de Poitiers and finally Louise of Lorraine. My very favorite chateau.
Principality of Monaco last evening for dinner. Grand Casino of Monte Carlo with glorious views, luxury yachts, cars and fashionistas. The Grimaldi Palace and church where Princess Grace married. A rare peak into the private gaming room and famous Buddha Bar!
Mont Saint Michel, Normandy’s gem and one of the most important places of medieval pilgrimage, built in 10th century by Benedictine monks. Ten remain and work in the Abby along with 7 nuns. Has withstood assaults of man, time and the elements. Unspeakably impressive. Killer hike.
In the small town of Grasse located between Aix and the French Riviera there are two things of special note, L’Usine Fragonard for perfume and the custom of hanging parasols to shade pedestrians in their streets from April to October.
Moroccan Odyssey
Casablanca, a city of paradox. Dirt floored homes clustered in slums and a few streets away, sharp-angled ArtDeco stunners close to the golf course.
2nd largest mosque in the world looms seaside. Our Lady of Lourdes Catholic Church. Gnawa music and dance: uniquely Moroccan.
Sunrise walk to the wharf as the morning catch was being hauled in. Essaouira on Morocco’s western coast, a stark and lovely transition from the chaotic energy of Marrakech. Shared lunch of stuffed grilled sardines with new friend Sylvie and her husband.
Camel ride. Fatima’s hospitality in her Berber home. A night under the stars in Merzouga and Saharan sunrise.
Many people, places, new friends, an appreciation for the richness of diversity. And reinforcement of my belief in the essential goodness of this great, big, amazing world. Stay tuned. This broad has plans for 2023. Abroad.
Thanks!