Hvar and Korcula Islands: Brilliant Jewels of the Adriatic

My first stop along Croatia’s coastline was a ferry ride to Korcula, only 20 miles long but 6th largest of the collection known as the Dalmatian Isles. It’s old town is charming with streets designed in a fishbone shape and walled since the 13th century. Built for protection from the sea winds in the winter and cooled by onshore winds in summer.

Reputed to be the birthplace of famed explorer Marco Polo, it has less a tourist and more small town generations of families kind of feel.

Singing troubadours in the cafe, 15th century St. Mark’s Cathedral in the town’s center with figures of Adam and Eve on either side, it’s a delight. Inside the Cathedral below the main altar is a restored Tintoretto, with another piece – The Annunciation – in the southern nave of the Cathedral.

On the evening I visited there was a performance of the “Sword Dance, shown as a battle between a White King and Black King who has kidnapped the bride of the White King. The two do “battle”, accompanied to music, until the Black King surrenders. 

After leaving Korcula, I drove along the fingerlike peninsula of Peljesac, then north along the coast to Drvenik for a ferry ride to the Island of Hvar. Likely the most beautiful Island I have ever seen.

The island’s busiest destination, Hvar Town is the island’s hub, easily its most glamourous, overlooking a small bay where 13th-century walls surround beautifully ornamented Gothic palaces and traffic-free marble streets.

Think “Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous” but filled with the charm created over centuries of contributions by resident Greeks, Romans, Venetians, Austrians, the English for a period, Yugoslavia, finally becoming, in 1991, part of an independent Croatia.

There’s a gorgeous slip of a beach, Monasteries Benedictine and Franciscan, a not too challenging climb to a 12th century Venetian built Fortica, looming above the town and glowing at night. The medieval castle occupies the site of an ancient Illyrian settlement dating from before 500 BC.

The views looking down over Hvar and the Pakleni Islands are magnificent.

I stayed in the amazing Riva Marina Hvar Hotel, breakfasting with views of the bay with a cocktail view of the days’ selection of jaw-dropping yachts followed by open air dinner at the tip of the island and fish so fresh they’d been swimming in the crystal waters only hours earlier.

A highlight was a shared view and afternoon beverage with an adorable honeymooning couple following their wedding in a Spanish castle two days prior.

The unexpected and delightful treasures of traveling! We shared “insta” info and I have so enjoyed their amazing wedding pics posted to the bride’s account. Thanks again Annie and Romek! I wish you a long and joyful life together!