It’s not about the castanets. Before my trip to Seville, I misunderstood the art form of Flamenco. I had visions of elaborately ruffled women clicking those little plastic gizmos in a face off with brooding matador-types in mock Andalusian ecstasy.
It’s not. Flamenco is an art like nothing I’ve ever experienced. It’s raucous, joyous, passionate and great entertainment.
Fun fact: castanets were not part of the original flamenco dance but they do date back 3000 years as clever instruments of percussion.
On this night at El Palacio Andaluz, I had the privilege of watching performances by Emilio Ramirez, known as “El Duende” and considered one of Spain’s finest dancers, and Maria De Amaro, another of the country’s premier performers.
Flamenco is made up of four elements, the Cante (a performer who acts as the narrative voice, he’s the guy clapping in the center of the photo above, the Baile ( the dancers), the Toque (the guitarist, a key performer), and the Jaleo, which roughly translated means “hell raising” and involves handclapping, foot stomping, and repeated shouts of encouragement by the Cante and the dancers. The use of hands for expression is amazing, similar to the balletic movements of the Hawai’ian hula dance and other Polynesian cultures.
Andalusian women are renowned for their beauty. Raven-haired, porcelain skinned, dark-eyed. In flamenco costume, they are magical. The typical flamenco outfit is called the Traje de Flamenca. Dresses have a “guitar shaped body” designed to enhance their already gorgeous figures. Heels are an essential part of the costume and range from 1-3 inches in height. Some have special nails in the sole, enhancing the sound.
True to the soap-opera genre, the performance tells the story, usually involving a scorned lover, a confrontation between the hero and the villain and a reunion. Flamenco adds elements of guitar virtuosity and the dancer’s remarkable athleticism all underlined by a throbbing percussive thread. Very sensual and wonderfully entertaining.
At El Palacio Andaluz, every day of the year, from Monday to Sunday, two types of flamenco shows are offered, one at 7:40 p.m. and 10:10 p.m., lasting 50 minutes; and another at 7:00 p.m. and at 9:30 p.m., lasting approximately an hour and a half. I went to the 7:00 and added the three course tapas-style dinner with a drink for 71 euros along with the show.
“Flamenco is a must-do, must-see in Seville.” says this broad traveling abroad.
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