It struck me as I was setting out the beautiful porcelain figures in our Christmas manger scene this year. Starting with the Holy Family. Adding the wise men, the shepherds, a donkey…even a camel. This was Christmas. A wooden manger. No room in the inn. In fact, there were no “inns” in the time of […]
How to Find Beauty and Divinity in Divided Bethlehem Read More »
Since launching this blog, I’ve been asked for advisory “kick-starters” from many who’d love to do a solo trip and appreciate the inside scoop from one who has. Here’s a collection of my best to date. Travel like a writer. In other words, approach your trip as an adventure with a script that you get
First Time Traveling Solo? The Best Advice From A Broad Read More »
Paper cones filled with roasted steaming chestnuts, the air perfumed by cauldrons of hot, mulled cider, cinnamon and cloves. Sacher torte with peppermint-laced cream. Blown glass ornaments delicate as soap bubbles, hand-painted eggshells, their holiday scenes painted with a feather brush. St. Nicholas, Pere Noel, Weihnachtsmann, Father Christmas… The Christmas season offers an intimate portrait
Once in a Lifetime Christmas Markets You Must See Read More »
You will never forget your shopping experiences in Morocco. There are the open bazaars and medieval markets, back-alley souks in labyrinths of the medinas. From Fes to Marrakech, the neon colors and bold patterns deliver a sensual assault. In a good way! It is overwhelming at first. Every shopkeeper is a carnival barker, circus performer,
Ultimate Shopping in Morocco: Here’s What to Look For Read More »
It started long before Rick’s Place made Casablanca a movie legend. Morocco has an enviable reputation for magical movie and TV series locations. In fact, during my recent trip I visited at least three: Ait Ben Haddou, Ouarzazate and Essaouira. There were also a few abandoned sets in the midst of Saharan sands where Jewel
See the Real Astapor: Daenerys’ Dragons and Magical Essaouira Read More »
Come with me to the gardens of Yves and Pierre… The Garden, located in the city of Marrakech and restored by Yves Saint Laurent and his partner, Pierre Berge in 1922, is one of the most enchanting and mystical gardens in Morocco. Created in the space of forty years, it is surrounded by walls and is
A World Famous Designer’s Art-Deco Treasure: Visit Majorelle Gardens Read More »
This is a “must” in Morocco. It’s sheer bliss, inexpensive compared to any spa experience in the US and an utterly amazing sensual delight. First, what is a hammam? “For every tourist coming to Morocco, visiting a traditional Moroccan hammam and experiencing the wide range of benefits is undoubtedly on their bucket list. Moroccan hammams take their inspiration
My Expert Guide to the Perfect Moroccan Hammam Experience Read More »
One of the best ways to learn the intimacies of foreign cuisines (and sample the goods!) is to take a cooking class when you travel. I had this amazing experience at Dar Rhizlane Palais and Table D’Hotes one recent morning in Marrakech. The word tajine refers to both the conical-shaped dish and the food that’s
Smoking Tajines and Savory Spices: How to Cook Authentic Moroccan Food Read More »
Morocco is alternately overwhelming, delicious, friendly and vicious. It offers a constant assault on the senses, enhanced by true tales of its barely believable past. And everywhere, there are children. Boys mostly but occasionally a young girl with her mother close by, begging. I asked permission to take her picture and bought trinkets from these
Lords of the High Atlas, How to Ride a Camel and a Saharan Night Under the Stars Read More »
First, do not try to navigate this medina without a guide. Or two. Or even three. We are a group of 20 seasoned, fit, veteran travelers. Multi-lingual, mature. This isn’t anyone’s first rodeo. On Saturday here at the Medina, we criss-crossed the Mellah, (the Jewish quarter and visited 13th century synagogue, still active), Andalusian and
Happily, Hopelessly Lost in a Fes Medina: My Survival Tips Read More »