Birthplace of Bullfighting and Hemingway Haunt: You’ll Love Ronda, Spain

This city is PACKED with drama: visual, architectural, historical, literary, culinary. It’s easy to visit, (less than a 2 hour drive from both Seville and Malaga ), to navigate on foot and has great restaurants and tapas bars. In one day you can see many of its major attractions, take pics, wander the streets and shops, marvel over its bullring and tributes to ancestral families of great matadors and relax over a splendid meal.

Its cliffside location and the chasm housing the Guadalevin River dividing the town are a photographic feast!

But stay longer. A couple of days. Here’s where to go and what to see:

Plaza de Toros de Ronda is in the center of town the Tourist Information Office is on the same square), was built in 1785 and holds 5000 spectators. More than an act of carnage, here bullfighting is elevated to an institution of chivalry.

I know, I had my caricature-like images and misinformed reservations too. I’m not a fan but I do respect its singular heritage and importance to Spanish culture.

The Ronda Bullring is one of the most emblematic sites of bullfighting. Underneath its seats lies the rooms of the story of the Real Maestranza de Ronda, Bullfighting Museum and the Royal Harness Collection of the House of Orleans.

Puenta Nuevo. You’ve seen it, an 18th century structure spanning the El Tajo Gorge between the citadel and the newer part of the town. One of the most impressive sights on the Iberian Peninsula, that’s certain.

Alameda del Tajo Ronda. Here you can relax in the shady gardens or stroll one of the loveliest spots in Ronda. At the end of the gardens is a balcony extending over the face of the cliffs with dizzying views guaranteed to impress.

Iglesia de Santa Maria La Mayor, an impressive church with a long, complicated history. Originally a mosque with most of its construction i late 15th century, not completed until 17th century because of a devastating earthquake in 1580.

Wineries. Pick one or two of the twenty-one on the ”official wine route”. Some, like Bodega Garcia Hidalgo, offer tastings, tours and even offer accommodations in their cellars with a reservation.

Palacio de Mondragon and its sublime cliff-top setting, dating back to 1314, this was the home of Ronda’s last Moorish ruler, Hamet el-Zegri. King and Queen Ferdinand and Isabella stayed there too. Reminded me of the Generalife at The Alhambra Palace in Granada.

Museo Lara is inside the 18th century Casa Palacio de los Condes de las Conquistas. Most interesting exhibits are those in the lower level, highlighting witchcraft and the Holy Inquisition. An eclectic assortment worth a look. Upstairs is a random collection of vintage ”stuff”.

Also of note, and intriguing to me, Ernest Hemingway wrote two novels, Death in the Afternoon (1932) and The Dangerous Summer (published posthumously in 1985) about Ronda.

“There is one town that would be better than Aranjuez to see your first bullfight in if you are only going to see one and that is Ronda. That is where you should go if you ever go to Spain on a honeymoon or if you ever bolt with anyone. The entire town, as far as you can see in any direction is romantic background.”

Ernest Hemingway

Orson Welles died here in 1985. His ashes are interred at the bottom of a well on a country estate which belonged to his friend, Antonio Ordonez, from one of Spain’s foremost bullfighting families.

Busy day of sightseeing, now it’s time to relax and enjoy the ambiance of this charming town. From the bullring, walk up the hill heading away from the bridge to