Amazing Istria: Opatija to Rovinj and the Mystery of St. Euphemia

Opatija, Croatia is a beautiful seaside town with a long tradition as a tourist destination and a 7 mile shoreline promenade called the Lungomare offering sparkling vistas from sunrise well into the indigo evenings.

Hotels all offer breathtaking views.

And of course, there are the legends. Every town in Croatia has at least one. Here, a statue of a Maiden with a Seagull extends her arm to the sea.

In 1956, she replaced the original storm ravaged “Madonna del Mare” erected to keep vigil over the soul of a long deceased count whose widow also died in the storm. Her infant son was saved and years later commissioned the Maiden.

And the Cuttlefish Black Risotto is a menu staple.

Then on to Pula with its famous arch, temple and amphitheatre. The Arch of Sergii was built at the end of the 1st century BCE (!) by Salvia Postuma Sergii with her own money, ( this fact is inscribed on the arch) in honor of the three members of her family who took part in the battle of Actium. The Temple, situated in the Forum, was dedicated to the goddess Roma and the Emperor Augustus. It was constructed between the year 2 BCE and 14 CE (!!) and made into a library in the 19th century.

And finally the Amphitheatre. Built from 27BC through 68 AD, it is one of the six largest Roman amphitheaters in the world of only 200 still in existence.

And its acoustics were good enough for the Avril Lavigne concert scheduled for that evening.

We continue our explorations to Rovinj, a fishing port on the west coast of the Istrian peninsula. The old town is charming, located on a headland with houses cascading to the seafront. A warren of cobbled streets leads to the church of St. Euphemia.

Oh, the mystery…Euphemia was a 2nd century martyr whose marble sarcophagus came floating to the coast of Rovinj after a storm at dawn of July 13, 800. Legend has it that the people of Rovinj tried without success to haul it to the Church of Saint George. Finally, answering St. Euphemia’s call, a small boy with two cows managed to haul the sarcophagus up the hill to the place where her church now stands.

A climb up the rickety 97 wooden steps was worth the splendid views!

Then back to Opatija for one last sunset stroll on the Lungomare and a seafood feast.