Visit Petra: Magnificent Site of the Last Crusade

Located in the southwestern corner of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan, Petra was a thriving trading center and the capital of the Nabataen Empire between 400 BC and AD 106.

My first question?

Who the heck were the Nabataens?

Brilliant, savvy, artisanal nomadic Arabs who performed engineering feats of singular merit.

Some scholars feel that the ancient Nabataean gods may have become: Al-Qaum, the male god of the night (moon), Dushara, the god of the day (sun) and the goddess Al-Uzza (stars). Given the carvings and symbols of Petra, I’d say this makes sense.

Slaves did not build Petra. Like the pyramids of Egypt, Nabatean society was largely egalitarian for its time, and labor was mostly paid for.

An enlightened culture! What happened to them?

According to Wikipedia, during the reign of Aretas III (87 to 62 BC) the kingdom seems to have reached its territorial zenith; it was defeated by a Roman army under the command of Marcus Aemilius Scaurus. As trade moved to other parts of the empire, the Nabataens became more impoverished and much of their fabulous city crumbled.

Amazingly, the city sat empty and in near ruin for centuries. Then, in the 1800s a Swiss traveler disguised himself in Bedouin costume and infiltrated this mysterious locale with the help of a local guide. After returning to Switzerland, he announced his findings to the world. Several scenes from the epic adventures of Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade were filmed in Petra.

Recently, I spent the day in this archaeological wonder, entering by following the crack in the high walled rock passageway, the Siq.

The Treasury

From The Treasury, the way broadens into the Outer Siq and a collection of more than forty tombs known as the Street of Facades. I continued on to the 7000-seat Theatre, paying a local guide about $15 to hoist me up on the path to a hilltop altar called the High Place of Sacrifice. This is a steep but manageable climb with amazing views. But not for those with a fear of heights or knee problems!

After about four hours of walking and marveling, I was ready for a break. Two options available here: a camel ride (I am so not a fan of these fly-ridden, smelly, grouchy and why wouldn’t they be?) beasts of burden, or a ride in an 8-passenger covered cart. I hopped on a cart and headed back up to The Treasury, which turned out to be the main commercial center of the area. Then I waited with the other tired, hot and hungry tourists for a ride on a second cart back to the entrance. Four hours to get down, thirty minutes to ride up. Smart and manageable. One of the Seven Wonders of the World not to be missed, with or without Indiana as a guide.

If you make it to this wonderful country, Petra is a must-see destination worth a full day’s time. I recommend staying at the Moevenpick Nabataen Castle Hotel directly across from the entrance to Petra’s sights.