Madaba, City of Mosaics

One of my most treasured purchases from a recent trip to Jordan is a pendant depicting the Tree of Life, a relic of Byzantine art, in amazing, microscopic mosaic detail. I was fortunate to meet the artist, a young man in his 30’s and the shop owner who detailed the seven month-long process he used to create the natural stone piece, requiring the aid of a super-strong magnification tool. He also volunteered his teaching skills weekly at the school for mosaic arts in Madaba where I was headed later that afternoon.

Under the protectorate of the Queen Noor and the Noor al Hussein Foundation, efforts to preserve and teach the skills of mosaic art are flourishing in Jordan, particularly in the area of Madaba, also called the City of Mosaics. There are many sites where Byzantine mosaics can be found all across Jordan but my recent visit to the active Greek Orthodox St. George Church in Madaba, close to the beautiful shrine at Mt. Nebo, offered a stunning example of the historical significance of this form of expression. It’s a pretty modest 19th century construction on the outside but it has one of the most amazing remnants of early Christianity currently known and is worth your visit.

In 1884 Christian builders unearthed the remnants of an earlier Byzantine church on this same site, surviving centuries of neglect…a mosaic measuring over 50 feet wide and 20 feet from top to bottom which to this day represents the oldest map of Palestine in existence and provides many historical insights into the region. The map, originally created 560 AD with over two million mosaic tile pieces, marks all of the major biblical sites of the Middle East, from Egypt to Palestine. Much has been lost to time but enough of the mosaic remains to imagine its former scope and complexity. And it is a beautiful work of art, still.

On Friday and Sunday mornings the church opens at 7am for Mass (visitors are welcome); viewing the map at these times is not permitted. A small shop by the exit sells copies of the map and reproduction Orthodox icons. During the week, entry is permitted and the map may be viewed and photographed.

• Talal St
• Hours 9.30am-5pm Fri year-round, 8am-5pm Sat-Thu Nov-Mar, to 6pm Sat-Thu Apr-Oct
• Price: adult/child under 12 free