It’s impossible not to be impressed by (1) the sheer immensity of this walled city and it’s legendary fortress. But an impressive distant past beginning with 7th century onslaughts of Slavs, followed by Saracens, 11th century Venetian rule and, through canny diplomacy, good relations with neighboring countries…even the Ottoman Turks, allowed the city to flourish.
Until 1667 when flourishing art and architecture (2) was destroyed by an earthquake, marking the beginning of the city’s economic decline. Napoleon lealt the city a fatal blow in 1808 and the Vienna Congress ceded Dubrovnik to Austria.
All of this informs the Dubrovnik that the (3) producers of the blockbuster Game of Thrones series and I fell in love with. In fact, they loved the whole country and shot legendary scenes in multiple locations. The city’s limestone streets, grand baroque buildings, sheltered stone alleyways snaking through switchback staircases to the cathedrals and other notable points of interest delight the traveler. And said production team.
(4) Day trips to Lokrum Island with it’s beautiful Benedictine Monastery and the original Iron Throne, gifted to the city from producers of the Game Of Thrones series marking extensive production locations in Croatia.
Sights to see: The Rector’s Palace, Cathedral of the Assumption (where one determined nun shooed out any tourist wearing shorts!).
I knew much less about (5) the “Homeland War” which began in 1991 and lasted four years, following Croatia’s declaration of independence. Dubrovnik, for no apparent strategic or military reason, was shelled for over two years by the Yugoslav military causing extensive death and destruction.
And (6) Rakija or Rakia, which is a type of fruit brandy that packs quite a punch, is considered the national drink of Croatia. Considered a cure for a variety of ills (one mother told me she rubbed it on her children’s chests to relieve congestion) including the morning aches and pains of old age. In the Istrian and Dalmatian regions of Croatia, its usually homemade and is also known locally as trapa or grappa. The plum variety is my personal favorite and was served by these lovely people at dinner.
A cable car takes you to the top of Mt. Srd for (7) unmatched city views and a perspective of nearby Koločep island is the closest island to Dubrovnik. With 300 people, it is the smallest island of the Elafiti and was important to the shipbuilding industry of Dubrovnik in earlier times.
Call months in advance (8) for spectacular tableside views of Dubrovnik in the Restaurant Panorama. Or, in an unbelievable stroke of luck, ask for a table just as the restaurant is gearing up for dinner and the best tables are vacated. Which we did!
Take the #6 city bus from the city gates at Ploce to just about anywhere in you’d like to go for 2 euros. Such as back to my amazing Royal Arniston Hotel at the end of a long but exciting day.
