Giving Alms: Silent and Beautiful Sunrise in Luang Prabang

Each morning before sunrise, the faithful line the sidewalks of the city of Luang Prabang in north central Laos. The custom dates back to the origins of Buddhism, and now hundreds do as Buddha did during his time, roaming the streets barefoot each morning seeking alms.

Everyone speaks in hushed, reverential tones as shoes are removed and prayer stoles are draped. Soon the first of a long line of monks approached…from fresh-faced kids to wizened elders, all in brilliant saffron robes with collection bowls slung on a shoulder.

This ceremony, known as Tak Baht (or Sai Bat), is conducted in total silence as a form of meditation.

Laos remains one of five communist countries where religious practices were banned along with Tak Baht. As monks take vows of poverty and do not produce their own food, the banning of Tak Baht was devastating to the monasteries.

The Lao people objected and a truce between government and Buddhism reinstated the tradition.

I experienced this with friends on a recent visit and we were careful to observe and honor the Buddhist traditions in behavior, dress and protocol.

Monks typically start their day at 4 AM with a chanting session before setting out for their daily rounds. And because sunrise in Luang Prabang varies from 5:30 to 6:45 AM depending on time of year, morning alms can take place well before the sun first breaks the horizon during the winter months. On this steamy, summer day we rose at 5.

The alms-giving blesses both the giver and receiver as monks rely on the offered food for sustenance. With over thirty area temples, each of the holy sites varies their routes as, one by one and barefoot, the monks pass in a line and pause in front of each giver.

The almsgiver places a handful of Lao sticky rice (and sometimes other treats) into each passing bowl. The monks are silent and made no eye contact with those of us lined up seated along the sidewalk.

Once the walk is finished, the monks return to their temple and the collected rice is shared along with any other food donations. The remaining portion is set aside for lunch, their only other meal of the day.

The tradition of Tak Baht is not considered charity but an obligation of support for the monastery and a show of religious dedication. To the faithful, giving alms is a form of cleansing the soul through spiritual redemption.

Almsgivers follow a specific set of customs, rising early to cook the sticky rice which has been soaked in water overnight. A mat is set out, footwear removed and, while the monks file past, rice is offered in the kneeling or low seated position.

It was an honor to be able to witness and participate in this holy ritual.