In mountainous northern Thailand, at the end of a long dirt road, private except for occasional but welcomed visitors, live the “long necked women” of the Kayan Hill Tribe. With our Thai-speaking guide, I visited this small village called Ban Nai Soi, where four different ethnic groups; Kayan, Akha, Hmong and Lahu live together, refugees from persecution, sharing resources and maintaining their own unique culture and customs.
Two decades ago, civil war caused the Kayan people to flee from Myanmar to the northern hills of Thailand. Others emigrated from Tibet, China and Laos. The Thai government has granted them access as refugees but they are not legally allowed to work. It is a complicated, politically charged situation. Beyond the politics are these proud people, warm and welcoming.
They have limited access to healthcare and few educational opportunities for their children. Most are subsistence farmers with small herds of goats, sheep and buffalo.
Housing is basic; an assortment of thatched roofs over bamboo construction, corrugated metal and woven matting. The government has only recently installed a system of pvc piping in order to provide clean, running water. Cooking is done over propane-fueled burners. Heavy showers the prior evening had washed out out worn paths around the settlement. Still, we were welcomed with smiles.
The women sell an assortment of handmade crafts, carvings, woven scarves and dress for photo-opportunities with visitors.
The oldest citizen is a 94 year old woman whose eyes I won’t forget.
I had packed an assortment of school supplies for the dozen or so young children attending the village school and we shared these along with a few sweets. Each gift was received with the traditional prayer hands and bow. And a smile.
In Kayan culture, long necks are considered a distinction of great beauty. At the age of five, little girls begin wearing the heavy brass coils that are added to every five years until maturity. Children do not sleep in the coils but teens and women do.
They are very heavy (I had a chance to hold one of the adult-sized coils) and severely restrict head movement both up and down, and side to side.
In fact, the neck is not lengthened by this practice; the shoulders and collarbones are depressed and collapse under the weight of the brass coils. Regardless, it’s an irreversible decision because of the weakened neck muscles and bruising, but I was told it is the woman’s choice to make.
During a peek into a classroom of young children I noticed distinct differences between Kayan, Akha, Hmong and Lahu kids, some with rings, others without, faces painted and not, dressed in native tribal skirts and headwear or in casual kidswear. Testimony that culture and tradition are vital and highly prized, but that kids are still kids, all over the world.