O Jerusalem! What You Need to Know Before You Go

Of all the sacred ground on earth, Jerusalem is one of the most prized; its history marked by bloody sieges and transfers of power, leaving wounds too deep to be addressed by politics or priests alone. You can’t possibly see everything, so choose the sites most important to you. Know before you go!

Hotel and a Guided Tour

First, book a centrally located hotel. If you do this, most sights will be within walking distance or available with a short cab ride. I stayed in the Dan Panorama Jerusalem. Most hotels are kosher and maintain these traditions in dining and I encourage you to view this explanation honoring Sabbath traditions. Second, hire a guide or sign on with a tour group making sure that your leader is credentialed and experienced in political and biblical history. And knows the neighborhood. My Israeli guide, Tal Segal offered us the richness of his thirty career as a guide with deep reverence for his country and the passion to share it. Third, embrace the overwhelming nature of your visit. It will be sensory overload, but in a good way. In every case, for every site, buy tickets in advance. Important note: all sites require appropriate dress. This means shoulders and knees should be covered for women, and it’s not a bad idea to tuck a scarf or pashmina in your handbag.

Tour By Quarter

Jerusalem’s major sights are best managed geographically, starting in the Old City. East Jerusalem , downtown, the City of David and Mt. Zion are all within walking distance of the Old City. The Old City is divided into four quarters- the Armenian, Christian, Jewish and Muslim. Since the city’s rich history spans over 3000 years, you will find architectural remnants of past conquerors such as the Crusaders, Romans and Ottomans in the different quarters.

In the Jewish Quarter, you can visit the Western Wall, considered one of the holiest places in the Jewish religion. The Muslim Quarter houses the Al-Aqsa Mosque and the Dome of the Rock, which are sacred to the Muslim faith and which you can visit only if you are a practicing Muslim.

Temple Mount

The Temple Mount area is a sensitive subject for for Jews and Muslims. Israel ceded administrative control of all Muslim sites in Jerusalem after the Six Day War in 1967. Then in 1994 Israel and Jordan signed the Wadi Araba Peace Treaty under whose terms Israelis maintain security in the Muslim Quarter on Temple Mount and non-Muslims are unable to pray or even visit the compound. This sparked additional conflicts in 2017, tensions remain heightened but an extensive Israeli military presence seems to keep things in check.

Church of The Holy Sepulchre

Important landmarks and churches are located in the Christian and Armenian Quarters, such as the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, holy to Christians of all denominations. The church is believed by many Christians to be built over the site of Calvary or Golgotha where Jesus was crucified and rose from the dead. For 1600 years, pilgrims have worshipped here. Expect crowds and waiting lines here and at the Stone of Unction, commemorating the site where the body is Jesus is said to have been anointed before burial. Here also visit The Chapel of St. Helena on your way around the eastern wall to the Crusader Chapel eventually to reach the 14th Station of the Cross, The Tomb of the Holy Sepulchre. You may spend a few moments inside a tiny space believed to mark the place where Jesus lay interred.

Via Dolorosa

The Via Dolorosa is the route that Jesus is believed to have taken as he carried the cross to his crucifixion and today these places, The Stations of the Cross, are marked by round metal plaques. The route winds and turns, with the last five stations ending in the Church of The Holy Sepulchre. You’ll need a map, a water bottle and patience. It’s worth it.

The Western Wall

This wall supports the outer portion of Temple Mount and is Judaism’s holiest prayer site. Here worshipper’s read and recite scripture, lay hands on the 2000 year old stones of the wall, many tucking prayers and messages into it’s cracks. If you’d like to place a note or prayer in the wall, you’re advised to write it prior to your visit.

The Wall became a place of pilgrimage during the Ottoman period and Jews would come here to mourn the destruction of the the Temple – for this reason the wall is also known as the Wailing Wall. It’s divided into two areas, a small southern section for women and a much larger northern section for men. Photography is prohibited her on Shabbat.

Mt. Zion, The Last Supper and King David’s Tomb

Garden of Gethsemane and The Basilica of Agony

“…Jesus left with his disciples and crossed the Kidron Valley. On the other side there was an olive grove, and he and his disciples went into it.” (John 18:1)

Built in Jerusalem in 1924 on the traditional site of the Garden of Gethsemane, the Basilica of the Agony enshrines a section of bedrock identified as the place where Jesus prayed alone in the garden on the night of his arrest. Although it is not certain that this is the exact spot, the setting does fit the Gospel description, and the present church, designed by the architect Antonio Barluzzi, rests on the foundations of two earlier shrines: a 12th-century Crusader chapel, abandoned in 1345; and a 4th-century Byzantine basilica, destroyed by the earthquake in 746.

The name Gethsemane is a Greek form of the Hebrew gat shemanim ([olive] oil press). Eight olive trees in the adjoining garden are very ancient. (The dating of olive trees is difficult as they renew both trunk and root structure so that a young- looking tree may in fact have ancient roots).

Pope Paul VI planted a tree in the garden during his visit to Jerusalem in 1964. Pope Francis did the same in 2014.

Jewish Virtual Library

The Night Spectacular Light Show

One more thing not to miss is the Night Spectacular Story of Jerusalem. For me, this vibrant sound and light show which is screened against the ancient ruins and the backdrop of The Tower of David, crystallized my historical perspective. The theater is outdoors, under the stars so dress for the weather. It’s a night in Jerusalem you’ll remember forever. Click here for ticket information.

Shalom!